French Onion Soup
French Onion Soup is perhaps the most iconic and well-traveled of all French dishes. Worldwide it has seduced more stomachs than even our beloved New England clam chowder, which incidentally, is another French export. Onion soup is, as author Robert Courtine suggests, “a daughter of the streets… In her presence, all castes dissolve. Rich and Poor are equal in appetite.” Her simplicity seduces all.
And from the subtle depths of all past ages the scent of the gratinee is the incense of haves and have-nots together in the dark, together because of the dark. The early to bed know nothing of her. They are the sons of error and is certainty itself. – Robert Courtine, The Hundred Glories of French Cooking
HUNTING FOR ROYAL ONION SOUP
I once read a legend that onion soup was probably “invented” by Louis the XV and promptly spit up my morning coffee laughing. In this histoire, Louis was out hunting with the boys when they returned to the hunting lodge and found nothing but a couple of onions and a bottle of Champagne in the cupboards. What is a poor monarch suppose to do but improvise when confronted with such bare necessities? Laughable at best.
In truth, a version of onion soup has been simmering on stove tops in peasant homes since the dawn of time. A recipe that has much more to do with economy and efficiency, than royal snacks for hunting parties. Nowadays it seems we have this crazy obsession to want to claim everything as the original recipe like somehow it is scientifically traceable to a single, exact defining moment of the onion soup genesis.
THE ORIGINAL ONION SOUP
One google search later and you will find at least one hundred recipes claiming to be the original or most authentic. Onion soup, at its very essence, is nothing more than onions and water boiled together. Period, done, finished, everything added from that point on is pure opinion.
Caramelizing the onions brings out sugars, and makes a more luxurious silky and sweet soup, adding flour gently thickens and provides the body. Some will argue about whether adding water or stock is more authentic, I say who cares, add chicken or beef stock if you are so inclined, or be like your ancestors and simply use water.
Some people add white wine, red wine or even sherry wine which adds a bit more complexity to the final flavor. I have seen multiple recipes advising milk and dairy products. The late, great chef Escoffier advised using small amounts of bechamel mixed with pureed onions to spread on the toasts before sprinkling them with grated cheese.
And her soul at peace. She cradles a whole world of bohemianism, of merrymaking, of fatigue and encroaching soberness in her sturdy matron’s arms. She consoles, in those small hours, our sickness of heart and disillusions. — Robert Courtine
Onion soup exudes my free spirit approach to perfect cooking; deeply rooted in the classics but without the constraints of rules and boundaries. Allow the moment to embrace you, let passion dictate your next moves, what is already in your cupboard will more than likely decide the final outcome.
Who knows, maybe Louis the XV did invent it.
French Onion Soup
My version of a classic French Onion Soup. I have fantastic childhood memories of going to La Creperie, a small crepe shop on Chicago's North Side, with my father and watching people savor steaming bowls of cheesy onion soup.
3 tablespoons butter
2 strips bacon (diced or sliced)
4 sweet onions (about 2 - 2.5 pounds)
4 cloves garlic (mashed)
1 tablespoon flour (omit if you are gluten intolerant)
10 cups chicken stock or water
1 cup red wine
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
8 croutons
6 ounces Emmental cheese
2 ounces mozzarella
1. In a large Dutch oven or heavy stockpot over medium heat, melt the butter until foamy. Add the bacon and cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring often, until the onions are soft and lightly browned, about 30 minutes.
2. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are very brown, about 11/2 hours. Adjust the heat even lower, if necessary, to keep them from burning. The sweetness and richness of flavor comes from this step.
3. Sprinkle the onions with the flour (if using; this addition gives the soup a bit more depth and body). Add the stock, wine, thyme, and bay leaf and simmer until golden brown with a rich taste, about 30 minutes.
4. While the soup is simmering, make the croutons. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the baguette slices directly on the oven racks and bake until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and preheat the broiler.
5. In a small bowl, combine the cheeses. To serve, ladle the soup into 8 ovenproof bowls, and then top each with 2 bread slices and 1/4 cup of the cheese. Working in batches if necessary, set the bowls on a baking sheet and broil until the cheese is golden brown, about 5 minutes.
My Onion Soup, version two When the soup is done puree in a blender. The soup will get a creamy look and taste even sweeter. Float toasted croutons topped with one poached egg and grated cheese.
Tuscan Onion Soup, version three Substitute pancetta for bacon in the original recipe. Half the amount of onions used and add one red onion and one fat leek. When you add the chicken stock and red wine, add a shot of balsamic vinegar. Top with a crouton, sliced Fontina cheese and a dusting of Parmesan.
